Bluetooth - Nearly there

[BBD]

I've managed to get bluetooth working okay on my ipaq 2210 (thanks to all the tips on here :) ). The only problem I have is when the connection is dropped when I switch the unit off. I don't mind leaving the ipaq switched on but I still need to connect each time I take it into my HC room (garage). Is there any way of automating this from within Netremote? At the moment I have to go into the bluetooth manager and click on the short cut and hit connect and wait a few seconds before starting Netremote. It works but it's not very slick!

[rocinante2003]

I think thats the only way.

[rkirmeier]

Any progress on creating a method to auto connect or connect using a button in NR? To me this seems to be the one major problem with NR. I simply cannot consider NR wife proven until this is figured out. I am using bluetooth and although it stays connected 95% of the time there is no way I expect my wife to remember how to close NR click the Bluetooth manager and connect then reopen NR. Is this a non-isssue with WiFi? Does WiFi reestablish a connection automatically like on a laptop?

Thanks,
RK

[avid]

Does WiFi reestablish a connection automatically like on a laptop?
It does indeed. WiFi is really the only way to go. Bluetooth has too many usabaility issues - it just wasn't really intended as a general purpose networking transport.

Brian

[Aaron]

I've used both WiFi & BT quite a bit... BT sucks big time!

This is why you only see it on a few mobile phones and not on much else except things like mice and keyboards.

[Mastiff]

I've been saying this for a very long time - I tried BT in the beginning and I wasted a lot of time on it. It's only usable for connecting a cellphone and a PPC, and for simple file transfer. Period.

[curry-kid]

BBD,

What you could do - if you are using Girder as well:
Set a Girder command to connect to the PPC using bluetooth. (You do this by getting Girder to learn a mouse click sequence.)
I then called the Girder command from the Girder start-up event.

In my prototype HTPC, you boot the PPC first and then start the HTPC.
When the HTPC fires up Girder, it auto connects to my PPC using bluetooth.

When NR Pro is released, you could use an IR command from the PPC to run this Girder command. You would have to have an IR reciever on the HTPC of course.
Not very elegant, but it would work... :D

As a side note...
When I connect the HTPC and the PPC with bluetooth, they appear to connect instantly. But they can only ping each other after maybe a minute. Bluetooth was setup using DHCP and it looked like the delay was while the IP adresses were issued. So I tried using static IP addresses but still get the delay. As NR uses TCP/IP, I have to wait for a time before NR can see Media Centre.
Once they have connected properly, I can turn the PPC off and back on, and sometimes the connection comes straight back up. Sometimes not. Any ideas ???
My PPC is a Dell Axim X30 Mid with WinPPC 2003 SP2.

Cheers
Chris

[Promixis]

Chris,

I have the x30 but havent played with NR/BT *yet*

Aren't the connection times with BT much longer then wifi?

And what about battery use? Lower with BT?

[curry-kid]

Hi Mike,

I had very limited sucess using wifi with the Axim to connect to the HTPC, using an ad-hoc network. The Axim could see the network but would fail to connect most of the time.
I tried using BT and it seemed to connect fine, so I've stuck with it.

The battery would pobably last about twice as long using BT compared to wifi. There is a hard button to turn the wifi on/off whereas the BT always stays on (unless you disable it from the BT Manager) - that says it all :D

My HTPC has been completely disassembled while I dremil some more casework to fit a matrix orbital display in it...
I will be shortly getting a wireless router - broadband has finally come to my area :lol:
When I have it all back up and running, I'll try wifi on the Axim again.

This site:
http://www.aximsite.com
is well worth a look for all things Axim...

Any idea of the timescale for release of NR Pro? I'm just wondering whether to get an LE licence now and upgrade, or wait for the release of Pro. :wink: :

Cheers
Chris

[Promixis]

Good luck with the Dremel tool. Be sure to try lcd master (written by me ;)).

If you consider yourself brave and don't mind working with a not quite finished product, we can arrange for your to try the latest nr pro beta. PM me.

[curry-kid]

Hi Mike,

I finished the dremel work... This is the finished product.

It is a modified Aopen H400A MATX case.
The front panel was made by Schaeffer in Germany. You download a free CAD package and design what you want.
The CAD package then gives you a price for the design and allows you to order it. Schaeffer CNC mill your design and you get it in the post within a few days.
The front panel is 4mm thick black anodized aluminium. The buttons and the DVD tray cover are the same 4mm aly.
You can also have milling done on the reverse of the piece - there are many tapped "blind" holes on the back for attaching the panel to the PC chassis etc
The window for the screen is 4mm thick clear acrylic which was milled to size by a plastics company.
Mounted behind the window is a Matrix Orbital 2 line display and an IRMan remote sensor.
The button in the centre of the panel is the eject for the DVD. It is wired into the DVD drive, in parallel with the internal switch - works great... :D

Software includes:
JRMC
Netremote - using Bluetooth
Girder
TVedia (was JovePlayer for DVD playback using Sigma Xcard)

Software config is not 100% yet, but then maybe that is the nature of HTPCs... :wink:

Cheers
Chris

[Promixis]

Nicely done - but why isn't lcd master running on the vfd :D

[avid]

Nicely done - but why isn't lcd master running on the vfd
Sorry Mike,

If Chris's HTPC is anything like mine, the VFD will be dark after the first two weeks. I simply can't read it across the room sitting under the TV (that's the HTPC, not me, under the TV!). That's one reason why I need so much feedback into NR.

LCD Master looks very interesting, and I am tempted to give it a go. But deep down I know that I will be looking at my PPC instread of peering, trying read the LCD from 12 feet away.

Brian

[Aaron]

So what did the faceplate end up costing?

just wondering if it is cheaper to buy a complete HTPC case or put one together as you did.

[curry-kid]

Hi Aaron,

The cost worked out as £163, broken down as:

Aopen H400A case £29.33
Black spray paint £5.44
Front panel £93.81
Plastic screen £27.61
misc hardware £6.98

The case I got was beige. It is also available in black, but I couldn't source one. The one I got was a b-grade anyway, so I saved a fiver :)
Which paid for the can of spray paint...
The plastic screen could have been a lot cheaper. The company who did it quoted me just £5 for a hand cut and finished one.
The stated tolerance was nearly as good as a computer cut one, but as the Aluminium faceplate was CNC milled, I wanted the better tolerance.
There is a 1.5 mm corner radius on the faceplate cut out and the screen fits perfectly, so it was worth it.

I was initially looking at the D.Vine / Dign 5 case, but it is way too deep to fit on my rack (or possibly anyones rack... :P ).
The dimensions of the H400 are W420mm H135mm D370mm, which is a good match for Hi-Fi components, and fits on my rack. :D

The next serious contender was the ATech Heatsink case.
But I thought £300 was a lot to spend on my HTPC before I even got it working. :wink:

So if you have the time and the confidence and want to save a little money for the inside bits, go for it !

Cheers
Chris

[Jlee]

I have an Accent case which is about the same price and a lot better looking in my opinion. Here are some pics:

http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/jleerigby/htpcpics.htm

[curry-kid]

JLee,

You are of course intitled to you opinion :P
I looked at the Accent case, but I really didn't want front USB ports. I wanted it to look like Hi-Fi rather than a PC. Also didn't like the DVD cover. But that is just my opinion :wink:

That looks like a fanless PSU in your case...? I have been considering getting one myself.
Have you done any comparisions on internal temperatures?
Some of the reviews indicate that this type of PSU puts a lot of heat into the case, as it can't blow the hot air out of the back.

What about the CPU fan. Is it stock - or have you lowered the RPM ?

I've installed a Zalman Flower and set the fan on min and it is very quiet.
But I've not started on the PSU yet...

Cheers
Chris

[Jlee]

Yes we all have different opinions and IMO the front USB ports do not detract from the look of the case. You are surely not telling me that my beautiful brushed alluminium HTPC case looks like a PC? I actually think it looks very attractive including the DVD cover. Accent have a new one out now that has a much better DVD slot.

The fanless PSU lasted less than a day for the reasons you mentioned. It was way to hot for this environment. I've gone back to my Enhance ultra quiet 300W PSU. I'd use a Zalman PSU if I were you.

The CPU fan is a Global Win CBK model. Q-Fan control on the mobo keeps the fan running between about 2000 and 3100 RPM depending on the cpu temp. Typically it runs at about 2900 and is very quiet. I can't use a flower cooler as the PSU is too close to the side of the CPU.

The Graphics card shown in the picture is a ATI 9600 Pro with a Zalman silent heatpipe cooler. I've since replaced this with the 9800 Pro and Zalman dual heat pipe cooler which has a silent Zalman fan on top of the heatsink. Because the fan is so close to the top of the case I'm now getting a friend of mine to make a ventilation hole in the top of the case to allow air to both the GPU & CPU. He'll make it look like it's been done in the factory.

[curry-kid]

JLee,

Re Fanless PSU. That is very interesting that it does indeed generate too much heat. I'll go down a different path then 8)

I have come across this:
http://linitx.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_54&products_id=225
Which is an external laptop type PSU and an internal DC-DC board for generating the different voltages needed to run a PC.
However the power rating of 110W will not be enough for every system, especially those with fast CPUs and GPUs.

The power consumption of my HTPC may well be less then 110W, but I'm not sure how to measure it before forking out for this PSU :x

Cheers
Chris

[Jlee]

I thought about using the Ettax fanless PSU and mounting it somewhere outside the case using some sort of extension cables but decided it would all look a bit clumsy and would no doubt overheat my AV equipment instead. I also thought about water cooling but figured that a water cooling kit would not look very nice next to my Plasma TV! :D

The addition of the Zalman heat pipe to replace the noisy fan on the ATI card made the biggest difference in terms of silencing the HTPC. I also have accoustic dampening all over the inside of the case as the alluminium case does tend to create a bit of a hollow sound box effect.

[Cocophone]

Plasma TV....

I am jealous :D


After paying child care for my two kids, mortgage payment and all the other stuff that you really don't need, but gotta have there is no $$$ left for buying a plasma tv.

Maybe someday........

[avid]

I also have accoustic dampening all over the inside of the case as the alluminium case does tend to create a bit of a hollow sound box effect
Interesting. I didn't bother as I was not sure of the benefit. Are you saying it makes a noticible difference?

I use an Accent case with an AMD 2.6 underclocked down to about 1.5M. But I *have* managed to fit a Zalman Flower next to the low-noise 300W PSU. The graphics is a silent ATI 9600. The disk is in an acoustic enclosure. And I have no case fans. The noise that I now notice is just a gentle hum.

So - would you recommend the addition of accoustic dampening to the inside of my case? Do you use the stuff that QuietPC sell?

Thanks

Brian

[Promixis]

Brain,

My unscientific experience is it helps with hardrive noise but not much for fan noise (especially when you are down to one fan...)

[Mastiff]

Cocophone, don't be jealous. Not to take anything away from the cool flat design and the wow-factor, but plasma TV's really aren't any good at all if you value picture quality, especially for movies. Any 1000 dollar 32" CRT TV will crush any plasma I have seen so far - and believe me, I have seen a lot! I will buy one the second I'm at least able to watch the news on it without being annoyed with the picture quality, and that's some years away - just like the chance of finding a DLP projector that can outperform my Barco CRT projector and costs less than 5000 dollars. The reasons are purely physical: If you want a plasma tv to fire and close down the cells fast enough to go anywhere near clarity and contrast of CRT, you will need a private power plant - I belive it has been suggested around 200 000 watts for a 40". And as for DLP - they can't touch black level of CRT since they try to block light already created while CRT projectors simply doesn't create any light where there's supposed to be black.


I will put both types of products in the Bose/Bang & Olufsen type: For people who value design more than sound and picture quality. In other words what they call "lifestyle products".

OK, I'll go down from my soapbox now... :wink:

[Cocophone]

Mastaff,

What kind of projector would you recommend for:

Under $1000 USD
Under $1500 USD

I've looked at the AVS forums and at those price ranges I realize I'm probably looking at DLP projectors.

I'm not sure if the diminsions of my room would work. One good thing is the room only has windows on one end.

[Jlee]

but plasma TV's really aren't any good at all if you value picture quality
Rubbish!

I bought mine specifically because I wanted to watch movies on a decent sized screen (you can't get a decent size with CRT by the way) in great picture quality. I don't know which Plasma's you've checked out but my Panasonic with 4000-1 contrast ratio has astounded all my friends and family because of the amazing picture quality. Then again I'm not daft enough to watch movies on a $7000 display and yet play them using a shitty £20 CD-ROM in my PC. I do it properly and use a good old fashioned top quality DVD player.

You are right to be jealous Cocophone! It's the best purchase I ever made. :D

[Mastiff]

I think you're asking the wrong guy, because I would recommend an older Barco 808, you should be able to get one of those in that price range. But then again the thing weighs around 150 pounds... I really don't know anything about lower end DLP, I have only looked at higher end stuff, and even that isn't good enough to surpass my Barco (which rost me around 5000 pounds four years ago and is just as good now as it was then).

[Jlee]

That's Ok but not everyone has their own cinema in their house. I suspect that a bloody great projector on your lounge ceiling is not going to look very pretty compared to a beautiful state of the art Plassy :D

[Mastiff]

You hurt me! Haven't you been to my website? The projector is built into the seating platform! :wink:

Anyway, I know may people are really impressed by plasma, but there is a reason that the best people in the business (just look at the elite at AVS.Forum) still say that you can't beat the picture quality of CRT. Actually the biggest problem for me with plasma is that I see the picture "crawling". Very annoying. But then I'm one of those weird people who will get a headache after an hour of watching most DLPs because of the raibow effect, something that around 80 % of all people never even notice. :-?

[Cocophone]

I need to go look at a DLP to check out the "rainbow" effect.

Right now I'm trying to get use to wearing my new bifocal eyeglasses.

I'm hating them at the moment. They have terrible peripheral vision.

[Mastiff]

I hated wearing glasses too. Which is why I 5-6 years ago did a lasik operation on my eyes. My best investment ever - even counting the home theater and multi-zone system!

[Jlee]

I had that done too. It was money very well spent but boy did it hurt :cry: Nowadays it's painless but I had teh treatment that was supposed to be more proven and longer lasting but painfull too - like someone threw sand in my eyes and rubbed it in with sandpaper. But I don't regret it. Now I have perfect 20/20 vision so no more contact lenses or specs. :o

[Mastiff]

Yeah, I know what method you mean. They rub off the outer part of the eye. In my case they did a nice cut in it, lifted it and put it back after the actual laser shots. I too have the same vision as I did after the operation. 20/20 on the right eye and slightly under that on the left eye, but that was my worst eye, so it may be lazy eye after 30 some years.